The Great Continental Divide, Spring 2001
I knew it would take a special guy to take this adventure with me. Ray was helping me celebrate the milestone of turning 50. I’d decided to fulfill a 30-year-old dream of mine, to ski every resort along the Great Continental Divide. We’d begin in Taos, New Mexico, then head north, all the way to Canada, experiencing every skiable mountain resort. I figured we’d have 14,000 kilometers of adventure. It took considerable time and effort to find the best companion.
“Hello!” I said too cheerfully, nervously walking into our local Sex Shop.
“I’m looking for a male mannequin to travel with me as I drive alone across the United States… well, I have this idea that if there is a male in the passenger seat, I’ll be safer. We’ll look like a couple.”
I caught my breath, realizing I was rambling on in my nervousness.
“He needs to sit in the passenger seat, keep me company, not complain about the music, my singing, or my driving!” I laughed.
The sales associate asked if I was looking for an “anatomically correct” male mannequin, noting that “he” was quite pricey.
“No,” I said, “‘he’ just needs to be a ‘dummy’, looking buff and protective, you know, the strong, silent type!”
After looking at several blow-up “partners” for me, she suggested I consider a retail store mannequin, a “half” man. She actually gave me a couple of phone numbers for suppliers of mannequins and, feeling much more relaxed, I left the store confident I would find the right man to take this epic adventure with me. Do you know how expensive store mannequins are? It would have been cheaper to “hire” a live, warm-blooded, strong, silent bodyguard to accompany me. I’d have him sign a contract including: no farting, burping, or complaining! There was no way buying a mannequin was in my budget, so I headed to our local Family Thrift Shop. I lucked out! Ray, the manager, was happy to loan me one of his rather worn-out half mannequins with the worst wig and the most ridiculous eyelashes I had ever seen. I tucked “Ruthy” under my arm, knowing she would make a perfect “Ray”. I trimmed back the plastic eyelashes, removed her wig, padded Ray’s shoulders, added my husband’s red plaid jacket, his Molson’s baseball hat, and sunglasses. The fact that Ray’s head was turned looking out of the passenger window was, well, convincing, especially with his sunglasses and hat on. He sat comfortably buckled into the passenger seat and without a doubt looked like my partner.
With big hugs and a promise to my husband, David, to travel safely, Ray and I headed off. I had no idea how far Taos, New Mexico was. Sure, I had all the CAA maps, a cell phone, a reliable van, and all my “stuff,” but this really was a long way to travel all alone. Ray and I needed to get into the rhythm of the trip. I sang loudly as we approached the cities of Kansas (“Kansas City Here I Come”), Salinas (“Bobby McGee”), and even though we didn’t pass through Wichita, it felt great, belting out the “Wichita Lineman” a couple of times. Ray never complained or harmonized.
The adventure of skiing unknown mountains beckoned as we followed Interstate 70. Arriving in Taos, it was surreal seeing the snow-capped mountains of the Great Divide rising from the desert. No snow in town, just mile after mile of galleries, tourist shops, and expensive hotels. Staying at the local Youth Hostel, in a private room, I enjoyed sharing meals and ski stories with several young hostel guests. I’ll bet a few of them put my Great Divide Ski Adventure on their own “Bucket-lists”. The skiing was perfect, with warm Spring days, and incredible snow conditions. A typical day included driving a couple of hours in the morning, skiing all afternoon, driving to the next resort, having a nice dinner, and sleeping in the local Super 8 Hotel (they’re clean, cheap, and great!). Ray cooperated nicely by hiding under the dash as we gassed up or dined, and never, not once, complained about the long, lonely afternoons while I skied.
I tried not to drive after dark, but there was one evening I miscalculated the distance and ended up creeping through a large herd of curious elk blocking the mountain road. Their huge eyes in my headlights reminded me of an Alfred Hitchcock movie scene. They would not move, so I had to gently push them aside with my van. I later learned that it was mating season and elk can be very aggressive and territorial.
Looking at my CAA map, I calculated that Salt Lake City, Utah, while technically not on the Great Divide, was just a few hours out of my way. Ray didn’t seem to mind the extra miles. I wanted to ski the renowned Snowbird Resort, host of the 2002 Winter Olympics. It would be a thrill to ski the downhill runs our Canadian athletes would later be “flying” down. Approaching the resort, it grew foggier and foggier, until I admitted defeat. Guest Services mentioned that there was another ski resort 30 minutes away that might have better visibility. I telephoned Alta and they assured me their conditions were perfect. So, off we went!
Every resort had “Ski Hosts” — friendly mountain guides to ski with. The young “Mountain Host” at Alta seemed disappointed that there was only one skier that afternoon and this “older lady”, me, would probably mean hours on the beginner runs. Indeed, for a joke, I suggested we head to the “Green” easy runs and I pretended I was a beginner… 20 minutes later, announcing I was ready for the Expert runs, he looked at me like I was “nuts”, but agreed to take me down a “Black” run. As we hopped off the chairlift, I swooshed down the Black Diamond trail in front of him, in my own graceful, controlled style, skiing like a Pro! He was flabbergasted! We skied every “Expert” run on that mountain. Later, he walked me to my van, met Ray, astonished that I had a travel companion.
“You sure surprised me,” he laughed. “I’ll never forget how a 50 year old Canadian woman with her ‘dummy’ can ski and travel alone safely!”
After a long day's drive to Bozeman, Montana, I was shocked that the Super 8 was fully booked! Worried I might be sleeping in the van with Ray that night, Reception tried to find me another room in the area. A gentleman in the lobby, realizing my predicament, suggested I was welcome to “share” his room!
“Excuse me?” I blurted. “Did you just ask me to sleep with you????”
“Heavens NO!” he laughed. “I managed to grab the last room available. It’s a one bedroom family suite, so if you want to split the cost, I’ll take the living room pullout, and you can have the bedroom.”
It didn’t take me long to get out my Visa and split the room charges with this stranger. It was weird sharing the toilet, sink, and shower... kind of like I was cheating on my husband. Ray didn’t seem to care who I slept with!
Over dinner with my roommate, Brad, I learned that he was celebrating his retirement by: Skiing the Great Divide! We had literally skied all the same resorts, often on the same days. We ended up skiing together for a week, parting when I crossed the border into Canada.
Following the scenic “road less traveled” into British Columbia, I realized my adventure was almost over. David planned to help me celebrate by joining me for a week at a Yoga Ashram on Kootenay Bay. The Ashram was beautiful, nestled in the hills overlooking the lake, a very romantic setting. But romance was not on their “menu” as Reception booked us into separate cabins, 10 minutes apart, explaining the energy emanating from any sexual intimacy would affect the Pure Vibration and Healing Energy of the Ashram. Well! We felt like teenagers sneaking into each other's cabins for “nookie” as after 5 weeks apart, we really didn’t care whose “Energy” our “Vibrations” disturbed! David flew home and Ray and I continued our long drive back across the United States.
For six incredible weeks I listened to the rhythm of my heart, rediscovering the independent, happy-go-lucky woman of my past.
Mile after mile I reflected back at how this trip celebrated so much more than turning 50. For six incredible weeks I listened to the rhythm of my heart, rediscovering the independent, happy-go-lucky woman of my past. I knew for certain that the adventure had changed me in a positive, profound way: that in the future I would follow my heart. And Ray? He resumed his position in the front window of the Thrift Shop, dressed as a female, with her ridiculous wig and new fake eyelashes, dreaming about his next adventure.